How mold remediation works in South Florida

EPA's rule of thumb: if the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet, a homeowner can usually handle it. If mold covers more than about 10 square feet, or there has been a lot of water damage, consult EPA's remediation guide and consider an experienced professional, especially if drying or cleanup is beyond your capacity. EPA also says to consult a health professional before starting cleanup if you have health concerns. People with allergies, immune suppression, lung disease, asthma or COPD should avoid mold cleanup altogether.

EPA does not recommend bleach or another biocide as a routine practice during mold cleanup, and Florida DOH says bleach or other chemicals are not needed in most cases. The goal is to remove mold growth by cleaning or removing moldy materials, because dead mold can still cause allergic reactions. If bleach is used at all, CDC gives a maximum of 1 cup of household laundry bleach per gallon of water, and you must never mix bleach with ammonia or other cleansers.

No. EPA says that at concentrations that do not exceed public health standards, ozone applied to indoor air does not effectively remove viruses, bacteria, mold or other biological pollutants. Florida DOH is direct: do not use an ozone generator to address an existing mold problem, because ozone irritates the lungs and is not likely to be effective. Ozone treats the air, not the wet material feeding the growth, and the moisture source still has to be fixed.

Sometimes. Non-porous hard items can usually be cleaned by wiping or scrubbing with water or water and detergent, then dried quickly and thoroughly. Porous items like upholstered furniture, carpet, ceiling tiles and cellulose insulation may have to be thrown away because mold grows into crevices and can be impossible to remove completely. Items that cannot be salvaged should be double-bagged in 6-mil or thicker plastic; large pieces with heavy growth should be wrapped and sealed before removal.

Not always. EPA says wallboard may be dried in place if there is no obvious swelling and the seams are intact; otherwise remove, discard and replace it, and ventilate the wall cavity if possible. EPA's water-damage guidance generally recommends discarding and replacing wet ceiling tiles and wet cellulose or fiberglass insulation; follow the guidance for the material and situation. Non-porous hard surfaces can often be cleaned and dried instead. The deciding factor is whether the material is porous and whether it can be dried quickly enough to stop growth.

No. EPA says do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces; clean and dry them first. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel, and it does not stop the mold because the moisture behind it is still there. Clean, dry, fix the water source, and then paint if you want to finish the surface.